Goa — the simple three-lettered state that evokes a united sigh of excitement, relaxation and exhilaration! Irrespective of your life stage, a holiday plan within India has to consider this small Konkan paradise on the Arabian Sea. And sure enough one of the first questions for anyone planning a holiday in Goa is which district to choose – North Goa or South Goa?
The Better Choice for a Family Holiday – North Goa or South Goa?
It isn’t a very large area to begin with (the extreme ends would be around 100kms apart), but when travelling with children, especially kids under 5, it’s advisable to choose one of the two areas and spend most of your time there. Going from the popular beaches in North Goa to the ones in South can take anywhere from 2 to 4 hours… not too many would have the stomach to manage that daily with a toddler (or two!), especially on holiday!
The decision on which is the best area to stay in Goa with your family, becomes relatively easier when you consider what the two districts are known for. South Goa has its calm and pristine beaches and luxury resorts. North Goa is known for the party scene and night life, some secluded getaways and historical attractions.
Living in Mumbai for the past decade, we’ve fallen so in love with Goa that it’s almost like a second home. Even after we’ve become parents, it continues to shine bright on our holiday calendar.
Based on our experience, here’s a low down of the key factors to consider while evaluating South Goa vs. North Goa for your family holiday –
Sun & Sand:
Baga, Calangute and Anjuna are perhaps the most well-known beaches of Goa. But when out with kids, you would be ill advised to venture to these places for the simple reason that they are just so over-crowded. The shacks there cater to a more bachelor-esque experience (cheap drinks, massages, some water sports).
The best beaches in Goa for the family are actually Palolem, Cavelossim in South Goa, and the ones adjacent to hotel properties (which are as good as private beaches). We have also found that the beaches attached to South Goa hotel properties are more shallow and long. So just from a safety perspective with little ones, South wins.
Beyond the Beaches:
Goa, we all know has its roots in Portuguese culture and there are some interesting historical sites to explore in the North. The Basilica of Bom Jesus, Shantadurga Temple, and a few other churches in Panjim are worth a look for the beauty of the architecture.
Towards the South, Goa also has some interesting waterfalls in the central areas (closer to Madgao which is the main train station), that can make interesting day-long excursions with older kids. The Dudhsagar Falls are perhaps the most popular and picturesque waterfalls but they require a good deal of trekking so we haven’t ventured there with a toddler yet.
While your tot can definitely accompany you to the cultural attractions of North Goa, the entire family is likely to enjoy them more when the kids are a little older.
Family friendly Hotels and Resorts:
A lot of hopes are often pinned on little ones enjoying the same things we do. Of course that is not always the case. For instance, our little one hated the beach on his first few trips. He just didn’t like the feel of the sand on his toes. “Mumma, chi-chi!” he screamed, and this was the perfect excuse for us to switch the water-fun part of Goa to the pool.
When deciding on where to stay with younger children (i.e. infants and toddlers) make sure the hotel has a spacious and clean pool, preferably with a separate kids’ section.
Another important consideration is to choose a location that is self-contained. Resorts are preferred as they provide a closed and safe environment for the younger ones to enjoy themselves. Kids’ clubs often provided by the higher end luxury hotels have activities (and even nannies) to keep the youngsters occupied, while the parents enjoy the time off.
Some hotels also provide water sport activities (on a paid basis), which in my books are much safer than the ones operated on the more touristy beach spots.
In North Goa, Vivanta by Taj at Fort Aguada and its neighboring Taj Holiday Village are perhaps the top pick family friendly hotels. Apart from these, Novotel Goa, Grand Mercure and Casa de Goa are also popular with parents.
Family resorts in South Goa include Park Hyatt Goa, Zuri White Sands, Club Mahindra Varca, the Lalit Golf Spa, the Leela Goa, and Taj Exotica.
Both, North and South Goa have some fantastic family friendly hotels and resorts, but the ones in South Goa have the added advantage of vast open spaces and almost-private beaches.
Eat-Shop-Repeat:
These are things that Goa will not disappoint you in – irrespective of which area you pick! Shopping in Goa’s flea markets is definitely a different experience – a lot of the stalls are set up by expats, bargaining is at its evolved best, and you can find some really unique hand-made treasures.
North Goa’s Night Market at Arpora is equally matched by the flea markets of Palolem and Caculo in the South. You will need to arrange for transport to and from the shopping areas whether you’re in the North or the South, as they are a fair bit away from most of the hotels.
Even in terms of eating joints, the two districts are at par. Thalassa, Britto’s, Gun Powder in North Goa are great. And so are Fisherman’s Wharf, Martin’s Corner and other local eateries in the South. Not to mention the cuisine at the restaurants attached to all the luxury hotels is top class.
For toddler-friendly food, we have mostly relied on the chefs at the hotel we were staying. The resorts in South Goa especially are known to take great care with baby food, and it is generally on the house.
Chefs at a good 4 or 5 star property (in North or South) are generally happy to custom-make baby-food as per your own instructions. For example, when we head to a restaurant outside our resort that may or may not have a kid friendly menu, we would get some khichdi or paranthas packed from the resort as a back-up (one more reason why a resort is preferred to some of the more bare-bones, budget hotels!)
Money matters:
Budget considerations are so important when locking in on a holiday destination – more so when your headcount has just become +1 (or +2)! Luckily Goa – be it North or South – is reasonable in terms of good food and getting around. The major cost will be your hotel room and that’s where budget can sometimes play spoilsport.
The good 4 stars and 5 stars in the North cost upward of Rs. 10k a night in peak season. The higher end ones in the South are pricier – starting around Rs.20k a night in the busy season. Plus some of the resorts, especially in South Goa, don’t have that many eating joints close by so you may end up eating at resort rates for most of your meals.
One interesting option to counter budget constraints is to look at serviced villas (like Isprava or Ishavilas) that offer a more pocket-friendly option, with equally good environment and top quality service. Just make sure you book the rooms with private pools, so you can enjoy the water with kids!
Another trick is to look for an off-season deal at the five stars, you can end up getting all meal inclusive packages for as low as 10-12k a night. Trust me they will be worth every penny!
What rocks our boat: We’ve done (and loved) the late night party scenes, night clubs, and beach shacks in North Goa. And if you’re going in December it literally feels like the ground and air itself is in party mode! But these are not things that matter when you’re with family. With kids, one veers towards a laid back lounge for the evening and calm comfortable days by the water. And that is what makes South Goa the best area to stay with family. The white sands and secluded beaches provide the perfect nests to kick back and unwind.
The best part about planning a holiday in Goa though, is that the confusion of South Goa vs. North Goa is not really confusing. When going as new(ish) parents, you’re sure to enjoy yourself in the South. And then your next trip – I assure you the state will lure you back – can be when the kids are a little older, and you can all enjoy the electrifying vibe of North Goa too!
